Sometimes we get a little girlie around here because, well, we’re women. But today we’re pleased to bring a special something to all the men in Minerva’s life…Ladies, don’t despair, you too can use a lot of Lolo’s tips and resources and/or pass them along to your menfriends who want to (or may need a little prodding to) take their look to the next level. – The Brains

Lolo Kartikasari left the field of International Law where she practiced as an attorney to pursue her passion for fashion.  She went back to school and received a degree in Merchandise Marketing from The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles in 2008.  Lolo has since trained under Michael Campbell, the owner of Fred Segal Finery and co-chair of the Merchants Association of Fred Segal, Santa Monica.  Lolo is currently a personal shopper and stylist (focusing on menswear), whose clients include many actors, writers, directors and studio executives in Los Angeles.

In my profession as an Image Consultant  I help many studio executives, producers, directors, writers and actors  put together their outfits for award events, premieres and meetings. My clients have an idea of a look and I help them create and make the look their own.

As an actor, you are your own product.  As any product out there, packaging is important.  For right now, forget the old saying “Don’t judge a book by its cover.”  You are in an industry which is very much recognition driven. Your publicist will help you understand that so much is about branding.   So think over your packaging before you go on a meeting or audition. What do you want your brand to express? How can your image help you do that?

Know Thy Self

The first question I ask a new client is “What is your style?” I’ve found that many starting actors struggle to describe their style.  Many say, “I don’t know.”  This is where your homework starts.   Begin by asking yourself  who are you and what are you about.  The combination of these answers will help you zone in on what is to be your style.

Think of actors such as Johnny Depp, Robert Downey Jr. or even Jack Nicholson with his glasses.  it doesn’t matter if you hate them or like them, when you think of these men a certain image stays in your head.  Each man has his own style, so uniquely his.  Johnny Depp, in the beginning of his career,  made the white t-shirt and denim sexy, with an attitude –  very “Rebel Without A Cause,” with a new fresh take.  Once he claimed that rebellious status, anything he put on became Johnny Depp, it became his own style.  The same case with Robert Downey Jr.  One might think he’s a hit and miss in premieres. Sometimes he’s Mr. Proper, other times he turns heads with seemingly eccentric choices.  But his style is actually very cohesive in its eclecticism.   He always exudes a playful attitude.  Somewhat boyish, somewhat naughty, and somewhat laughing at you while you think you are laughing at him.  The intelligence is there and the style is undeniably his.  That uniqueness should be your ultimate goal in determining your style.   You want to be the guy who’s personality shines strongly through your style.

If you can think of a term to describe your style then use it.  Terms can be anything such as American Worker (pick a decade please!), Woodsy Guy, Beach Guy, Western, Anti-Establishment, or Preppy or Casual-Comfortable.  If you can’t think of a term, then think of a person that you relate to most in terms of style.  It could be an actor from the past, a character from a movie, or an author – anyone.

You might find perusing sites of fashion bloggers to be useful. To get inspired by real people is fantastic.   Check out Scott Schuman’s blog The Sartorialist for more mature, sophisticated styles.  I also love lookbook.nu where fashion lovers from around the world post their looks.  Warning: while some might be shocking to you, and way too out there for your comfort level, bear with me and continue on to browse through these different looks.  This is a good shock therapy for your brain!  Get out of your comfort zone and get adjusted to the idea that people really do adjust their styles to their inner personalities.  Don’t be afraid to show yours.

Just remember, when you look around, think of your own personality.  The idea is not to copy someone else’s style.  It’s about you:  understanding yourself, your character and your culture.  The above examples should be sources of inspiration, not imitation.

Once you nail down the style that you think is the closest to describing what you are about, then give yourself a pat in the back!  Now let’s move on to the next step.

Know Your Fit

Let’s get your correct measurements.   When you buy a piece of clothing, it’s not about the price, although there’s some truth to the thought that expensive clothing tends to fit the body very well.  But all your clothes must fit you perfectly.  There is nothing flattering in wearing clothes too tight or too baggy.

The basic measurements that you always have to know are your neck size, arm length, waist, pants length and shoes. Let’s go down the list and get to know your body.   Before we do this, remember to embrace your sizes.  When it comes to clothes, you really need to be honest to yourself, do not cheat on your measurements.  It’s always best to know your real fit. Your fashion stylist or image consultant can make suggestions on what style of clothes fit your body type the best.  For right now, embrace it, come to terms with it and love it!

The Dress Shirt:

In the event that there are no tailors around you and only a roommate or loved ones are available to assist you, get a measurement tape and use the following guidance:

Neck Measurement

–          Wrap your measurement tape around your neck, over your adam’s apple.  Make sure that you feel comfortable.  It shouldn’t feel tight and you should be able to breath comfortably.

–          The above is your actual neck size.  Round up to the closest half an inch and you get your dress shirt size.  For example, if your actual neck size is 16 then your dress shirt is 16.5.

This is your American size.  Most retailers here in the U.S. carry shirts from size 15 to 18.  I’m going to give you a little cheat sheet, which translates American sizes to European sizes.

Arm Length Measurement

You will need assistance on getting this measurement:

–          Stand still with your arms rest naturally on your sides.

–          Start measuring from the top of your spine on your back (the middle top of your back, under your neck).

–          Move across the shoulder blade to where your shoulder and arm meet and remember or write this number.

–          Now start measuring from that last point bringing down the tape measurement to below your wrist.  Write this number down and add the previous number.  Round it up to the next whole number.  Usually the number will come up to anywhere from 32 inches to 36 or 37 inches.

When you try on a dress shirt, you should try to button the shirt all the way up to your neck.  Consider that you might want to wear a tie with the shirt some day.  You want the neck to be comfortable, so that it doesn’t choke you.  Bear in mind you also don’t want the neck to be too loose.  A good rule of thumb in trying on a dress shirt is to test it by inserting two fingers while your shirt is buttoned up.  If there is still some space left when you insert two fingers, then the neck is a little too big on you.  Ask for a half size smaller.  Each brand cuts differently- always ask if they are true to size or if it runs big or small.

Once you know your neck size (both your American and European sizes!), figure out which style of fit flatters your body type the most.  I am a big fan of a slimmer fit on a guy.  I think that it looks elegant and very flattering on all body types. Extra fabric flowing on the sides of a body never looks flattering.   It distracts attention from your face or body language.

Most European dress shirts are slimmer fit.  American brands cut theirs a little bigger, following the traditional sporty laid- back American culture.  However, many American brands too now have a slim fit style in their shirt lines.

The Pants

Your pants size is determined by your waist size.  This measurement you can do by yourself.  Here’s how:

–          Take your shirt or sweater off.  It is best to measure on bare skin.

–          Stand up straight, relax your stomach muscle and find your natural waistline, which is right above your belly button.

–          Start measuring by wrapping your tape measurement right above your belly button to around your waistline.  That number is your waist size.

Pants Length

Once you know your waist size, let’s figure out your pants length.  Again, have someone else help you with this measurement:

–          Stand up straight , you will be measured on your side.  This is called the outseam.

–          Have your friend place the beginning of the tape measure on the top of your hip bone, bringing the measurement tape down to under the ankle bone.  Write down the number and add a half inch, the total is your length measurement.

In general, it is better to get a pair of pants longer than shorter.  You can always have your tailor hem the pants for you.  However, there is always that occasion where you find a pair of pants that fit absolutely perfect on the waist and you love the cut, but it’s a little short on you.  Check on the bottom hem.  See if there is any extra fabric folded that your tailor might be able to work with to lengthen this pair of pants for you.

To determine your belt size, you just go up a size of your waist.  Belt sizes are even sizes.  If you are a size 32 or 33, your belt size is 34.

The Jacket/Sports Coat

Okay, this is where you need to really watch it.  I don’t care how great your shirt and pants look, if you wear a jacket that is too long or too big on you, you’re drowning in it! I would almost rather you wear a jacket slightly too small than too big.  You can be all Thom Browne (if you don’t know who Thom Browne is please do yourself a huge favor and Google the image of Mr. Browne and his designs) – shorter length of jacket, slightly tight on the body – and look fantastic.  Seriously, wearing a jacket that is too big makes a guy look sloppy.

Now that we get it out of the way, let’s get your measurement.  There are two different faculties in getting the correct size.  Some people like to add their waist size by six inches.  So if you are a size 32 pants, then you are most likely a size 38 jacket.  I don’t particularly find this method to be reliable.  Some guys are broad shouldered, which then change the whole game of waist size plus six inches.   I personally would rather get a measuring tape, place it under the guy’s armpit and wrap it across the chest.  This is your chest size.  If your chest size is 42 inches, then your jacket size is 42.  If you find that you are in between two numbers, round it up to the next number.

Building Your Wardrobe

Now you know your style, you have your sizes.  Shopping?  Not yet.  No matter what your style is, there is a formula I suggest my clients to use when they are building their wardrobe.  I don’t want you to own 50 trendy pieces that you can only wear for a few occasions.  The formula is to own pieces that communicate to one another.   Take note of the following pieces:

–          Crisp white dress shirt

–          Crisp navy dress shirt

–          Crisp grey dress shirt

–          A pair of khaki pants

–          A pair of dark denim

–          A navy suit

–          Couple of ties (navy, black, grey)

The above pieces are what I call your absolute must have in your closet.  They are your basic pieces of building your wardrobe. These pieces can be mixed and matched with other pieces and other colors easily, they can be dressed up and dressed down whenever needed.

For a look that can last you the whole day, I recommend wearing a white shirt, your pair of dark denim, your navy jacket and brown shoes.  You can also put on a tie, if you wish.  Loose the tie in the evening and you’re ready for a drink with your friends or straight to your dinner date.  Remember to always send your jacket with the pants for dry cleaning to avoid differences of  color shades in the suit.

Go through your closet.  Some of the above items you might already own.  Preserve them if they are still in a good condition.  If you think the fit isn’t the best, then see if you can still save it by bringing it to a tailor.  If the cost makes sense, go head and get the work done.  If not, I suggest donating them.  Chances are you’ve got good use out them, it’s time to move on.

Practice Makes Perfect

Now, brands fit differently.  Some brands are slimmer fit and some are fuller.  When you are at a store, tell the sales person your real size. They should be able to advise you which styles to try and what to avoid.  Reputable small boutiques such as Fred Segal Finery in Santa Monica or Opening Ceremony in La Cienega are a better place to start.  You get more attention  and the sales people are normally generous in giving you advice and suggestions about which brands should work for your body type.

Some of the above pieces such as suit and sports coat could be expensive.  That’s why, to me, it’s important that you buy only pieces that you can easily put together with the rest of your wardrobe.  The above pieces are your investment, you probably will end up having and wearing them for a few years, if not more.  If you can wait then buy them during sales event.  Retailers such as Barneys, Bloomingdale’s, Fred Segal have their sales events about twice a year – definitely take advantage of purchasing a beautiful piece with a discounted price!  Once you know your fit and size check online stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Barneys, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus for their sale merchandise.

Now have fun!  Remember, embrace the adventure of discovering your inner, most unique personality and expressing it through your style.  Your style will evolve with time, and that’s fine.  Everybody changes, and that’s what makes everything exciting.  The key is to keep your basic pieces, update them every so often to a fresher cut and add or edit according to your current passion or mood!

For more of Lolo’s insight visit www.martiniandmilk.com. Below she takes one of her favorite looks from lookbook.nu & gives her how-to-get on a “splurge” or “save” budget:

How to do this look

Splurge:

Shirt – Band of Outsiders sea island cotton  — $350  (Fred Segal Finery, Santa Monica)

John Varvatos Solid Knit Tie — $125 (JohnVarvatos.com)

Nudie jeans Tight Long John  –- $199 (Ssense.com)

Save:

Shirt – Kenneth Cole New York Dot Me Dobby — $88 (KennethCole.com)

New Solid tie — $19 (UrbanOutfitters.com)

Levis 514 down low jeans — $39.99 (UrbanOutfitters.com)

Look image from Mark C. on lookbook.nu